The Seattle Times recently posted a very thorough checklist of “To Dos” to fix up and spruce up your home before the winter weather hits us hard. It was a surprisingly detailed list. As a long-standing roofing company in the Seattle area, we were pleased to see the list started right off with your “roof and rain gutters” maintenance. Roofs do need to be maintained so Dwight Barnett’s tips are very advisable:
Check the roof for loose or missing shingles.
Repair humped shingles where “nail pops” raise the shingle, exposing it to the howling winter winds.
Hand seal loose shingles, using a roofing cement.
Check metal flashing material and caulk and seal areas that have cracks or are exposed to the weather.
Check skylights and satellite dish mounts located on the roof.
Check plumbing and roof vents and caulk or replace if necessary. Penetrations of the roof covering, i.e., plumbing vents, chimneys, roof vents, etc., are more likely to be sources of a leak. Use a good grade of clear silicone caulk to make the needed repairs.
Make sure the attic-to-roof vents are not blocked by insulation, bird nests or other debris.
Check roof-vent fans and turbines to make sure they are in a good working condition.
Do not cover any of the roof’s vents. Humidity and moisture are removed by the vents in both the winter and the summer.
Clean the gutters and check for leaky seams, loose hangers and improper drainage of the downspouts.
Make sure the downspouts direct runoff water away from the foundation for a minimum of 6 feet. This is very important to the structure’s foundation.
Use a good grade of silicone caulk to make needed repairs to the guttering.
Always be aware of any high-voltage wiring near the roof and maintain a safe distance from the wiring.
Check the chimney for loose mortar, and caulk or tuck-point (replace the mortar) as needed.
Have the chimney cleaned, and any cracks to the top of the chimney should be sealed.
Install a chimney cap to prevent rain, birds and small animals from entering the flue.
Contact a certified chimney sweep to clean the flue.
The rest of the article can be found here. Just please be very careful while up on your roof and if you aren’t comfortable repairing your loose or missing shingles or nail pops, please call a professional roofing company like Raynproof Roofing to help you out with your repair.
For the vast majority of roof systems, attic ventilation is required by the four model building codes (BOCA National Building Code, Uniform Building Code, International Building Code, and Standard Building Code). Despite these code standards, attic ventilation is not a "one size ﬁts all" application. For example, in hot and humid climates, air intake can actually increase moisture problems in attics, or if you plan to build a very complex roof design, it many not be possible to ventilate every 'nook and cranny' of the attic. In fact, all of the model building codes allow for the design of vented and unvented roof systems (http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-102-understanding-attic-ventilation/). Because of the complexities with this issue, Raynproof Rooﬁng recommends you consult with a local building expert or contact your local building department before modifying your ventilation design.
The National Housing Agency ﬁrst recognized the importance of attic ventilation in 1942. Since then, the amount of attic ventilation required by building codes has steadily increased. During summer months, attic ventilation can reduce excessive heat and humidity build-up, while in the winter, proper ventilation can reduce problems associated with condensation and ice dams. Proper attic ventilation also promotes energy savings by reducing air conditioning costs during the summer and maintaining insulation performance during the winter.
At the current time, the ratio of 1 square foot of net free ventilation for every 300 square feet of ﬂat attic area is the typical standard, with the stipulations that ventilation must be split evenly between intake and exhaust, and that the ceiling must have a properly installed vapor barrier that separates any 'conditioned' air space in the house from the unconditioned air space of the attic. For steeper roofs, or for roofs with more complex designs, sometimes the ratio of 1/150 is required. Read More...